Copenhagen Fashion Week is quickly becoming a favourite fashion destination for press, buyers and street-style stars. Environment is the key focus of CPHFW as it continues to be a leader in educating and encouraging the industry to take big steps toward becoming more sustainable. The eco-impact of the runway shows is changing, too. Copenhagen Fashion Week organizers have created a set of standards that each brand must follow to ensure the event itself is mindful of Mother Earth. This year, the schedule featured a mix of established and up-and-coming Scandinavian designers, showcasing in-person and through digital presentations. We’ve rounded up six brands that caught our eye this Autumn Winter 2022 season. —Lyndi Barrett
stine goya. You can always count on Stine Goya to present a joyous collection, filled with bright colours, painted prints and innovative Danish designs. Launched in 2006, Stine Goya has grown her brand to be available worldwide in boutiques and department stores, and with three stand-alone stores in Denmark.Copenhagen plays a big part in Stine’s inspiration. She often references the city in her vibrant colour palettes and playful patterns. Autumn Winter 2022 was called Inside Out. We loved the reversible metallic puffer jackets with floral print on the inside.A rainbow of shades was on display. Think bright green, punchy orange and vivid purple. Stine Goya is well known for her innovative prints. These were hand painted in gouache paints before being digitized. This process creates unique and original fabrics that are oh so fun. Goya’s signature checkerboard knits were a standout style again this season. Her knitted sweaters and twinsets have been spotted on celebrities like Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner.Goya is currently one of the most sought-after Danish designers, quickly garnering international attention. The brand is known for their colourful, cool, and relaxed sense of style. They’re also a leader in sustainability, aiming to be at least 90 per cent sustainable by 2025.
mark kenly domino tan. Known for his impeccable tailoring, Mark Kenly Domino Tan presented a collection filled with beautiful textures, clean lines and minimalist silhouettes. The show took place at Statens Museum for Kunst, Denmark’s National Gallery featuring paintings by Georgia O’ Keeffe. The American artist played a big part in Tan’s inspiration for Autumn Winter 2022 and served as the background to showcase the collection.Sustainability is always at the forefront for the brand. Tan focuses on creating clothes to last for many seasons. Carefully sourced natural fabrics included merino wool, silk, cashmere and cotton twill. Each item was designed to be universally flattering and inherently comfortable. Think structured silk twill fabrics, softened with lightweight wool flannel. The neutral colour palette featured shades of chestnut browns, grey, ivory and black.Tan’s has an extensive design background. Before stepping out on his own, he spent time at Dior, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen. His attention to detail is impeccable, and this collection was no exception.
skall studio. Founded in 2014 by sisters Julie and Marie Skall, Skall Studio has become a leader in eco-conscious fashion and responsible sourcing. Their approach to all aspects of their business, from production to the people involved comes from a sustainability perspective. Their collections are fur and leather free and are created from natural materials to ensure each item will last season after season.Inspired by the English countryside, the AW collection is filled with beautiful outerwear, tailoring and knitwear. The fabrics are sourced from some of the few remaining wool mills and knitting factories in Denmark, as local production is very important to the Skall sisters. This season, Skall Studio introduced water resistant outerwear in cotton. Inspired by a classic trench coat made with a fluorocarbon-free finish.The collection felt very Danish with the pleasing tonal colour palette, minimal aesthetic design, all made from sustainable fabrics. Skall Studio is a slow fashion brand on the fast track to international success.
malene birger. Swedish sisters Maja and Ellen Dixdotter are the force behind By Malene Birger. Founded in 2003, the sisters came to the brand in 2020 with Ellen as the CEO and Maja as the creative design lead. Maja continues to build on the popular Danish brand’s bohemian, yet restrained aesthetic. This season was inspired by Florence, where Maja sketched the collection. The city’s golden light informed the warm beige and cream colour palette, punctuated with sky blue. The collection maintained its bohemian yet contemporary style. It featured very wearable tailoring, nubby knitwear and flowing dresses. Beautifully styled in that effortless Scandinavian way. Comfort is always top of mind when Maya picks the fabrics. This collection was cozy, chic and gave us all the Hygge vibes!
samsøe samsøe. The AW22 collection was a celebration of youth. Taking cues from grunge and rave culture from the 1990s, the Samsøe Samsøe collection spoke to the importance of inclusivity, individuality and freedom of expression. Bold colour and daring prints were at the forefront. A style that is something quite new for the brand. The show was called Past, Present and Future, and marked the first collection for Samsøe Samsøe under the creative direction of Meme Marta Fagiuoli for Womenswear. Fagiuoli focused on the shapes and proportion of each garment, combining oversized outerwear with fitted pieces. The vivid colour palette of bright green, electric purple and orange were beautifully grounded in neutral shades. We loved the pop of zebra stripes featured throughout the collection. This was expertly aligned with the menswear collection, with Gitte Wetter as the head of menswear design. The Samsøe Samsøe brand dates back to 1993. It’s Danish heritage plays a big part in the style, featuring the utilitarian ease of Copenhagen street style combined with a Scandinavian spirit. Samsøe Samsøe is currently available in over 1600 retailers worldwide, including Holt Renfrew. The brand continues their long-term sustainability plan, and currently has over 75 per cent more responsibly sourced fabric. Their goal is to each 100 per cent responsible materials by 2024.
ganni. One of the most recognizable Danish brands is GANNI. Founded and run by husband-and-wife team Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, the label continues to amass a loyal following. Their hashtag #GanniGirls has over 55,000 tags, featuring personal style as a form of self-expression. This season, GANNI hosted screenings of their digital performance in Copenhagen, London and Paris.Inspired by early ’90s indie music, GANNI presented Love Forever Ever, a unique live performance project that built on their digital show format from last year. VEGA, Copenhagen’s most iconic live music venue set the stage for Danish singer Jada to perform with a group of dancers, all wearing pieces from the collection. Featuring glitzy garments, slinky pencil skirts, metallic covered denim, and snake print suiting. The collection was fun, feminine and oh so cool.The standouts were the accessories: lug sole boots, pointy embroidered cowboy boots and cherry red Mary Janes featuring GANNI’s signature crystal flower embellishments. We loved the pillow-shaped bags made from recycled nylon, which are sure to be a sought-after item. GANNI currently uses 70 per cent-plus certified organic or recycled materials across their collections and is committed to using only 100 per cent responsible materials in the future. The brand is working on gaining traceability throughout their entire supply chain, to drive meaningful and structural change for people and the planet.